Sun 3 Mar 2013
Chicago, like DC, is having something of a doughnut moment. Moving in on cupcakes with sharp elbows, boutique doughnut shops are popping up all over the Loop, boasting creative flavors honed by pastry chefs from pedigreed restaurants.
Glazed and Infused – perhaps one of the best punned named restaurants I’ve yet encountered – has several locations in Chicago. Though I’m not usually a doughnut buff, I was curious to check out the trend on a recent visit to the
frigid Windy City. [Sidebar: What kind of moron decides to visit Chicago in February? Oh, me. That's who. My face is still numb.]
This shop keeps good company: It’s neighborhood, Fulton Market, is a developing restaurant hot spot in the city with Girl and the Goat, Publican, and Avec nearby. One could spend an impressive full day’s eating without going more than 6 blocks in this gentrifying warehouse district.
I can say easily, I have never been more tempted inside a doughnut shop than I was at Glazed and Confused. I must have let half a dozen people go ahead of me in line as I tried to choose between fresh apple fritters, maple bacon longjohn, and seasonal jelly-filled donuts. My only complaint about the shop is that they don’t offer doughnut holes to enable taste a little of everything without a spontaneous onset of diabetes.
Finally I picked a smorgasbord of flavors: a yeasty creme brulee with a surprisingly on-point sugar crackly glaze; a zesty lemon cake with a blueberry glaze; a classic Bismark sugared yeast doughnut with a bright raspberry jelly; a red velvet cake with a schmear of sweet cream cheese icing.
Each selection was worthy of the calories, with the creme brulee as the lone exception. Though the torched sugar was impressive, the vanilla creme fill on top of the yeasty doughnut was an overwhelming bite.